Evans Notch, New Hampshire/Maine Go wild in the White Mountains Bayard Russell on Maine Line (5.11a), The Laughing Lion. Otherwise, Mountain Project has the beta, including the previously unpublished lines on Mosquito Wall and Hayden Peak. Guidebook: Uinta Rock, by Nathan Smith and Paul Tusting, is out of print but may be found in stores. Uinta mosquitoes can be fearsome-bring bug dope and long sleeves. Tip: Save the Ruth Lake crags for a heat wave-they’re shady almost all day. In recent years, several climbers have been developing walls on 12,479-foot Hayden Peak, including three- to five-pitch routes (mostly trad with bolts in key places) on the 400-foot, west-facing Iron Hayden Wall. For getting off the beaten path, guidebook author Nathan Smith recommends Cliff Lake (“three steep 5.10s and a handful of easier lines”), Notch Lake (“a 2.3-mile hike in, but it goes by quickly and you will rarely find anyone else there”), and the Wall of Tiers (“close to Ruth Lake in overall quantity of great climbs, but many of these are mixed or trad, so they don’t see the traffic”). Sessions (5.12a) and Obsessions (5.12b) both have the proverbial “biggest holds you’ll ever fall off.” The nearby Mosquito Wall has about 18 bolted routes, most of which are 5.9 or easier. If you like crimpy 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, this is your place.įor a mix of grades on vertical to super-steep routes, head to the Stone Garden a few miles north (downhill) from Ruth Lake. Most first-timers head to the bolted crags above Ruth Lake, with lines of all grades quite close to the road. The tiered quartzite crags have a mix of trad and sport routes. With about two dozen crags, nearly all above 10,000 feet, dotted among the lakes and bare mountaintops, the Uintas are flat-out gorgeous. The paved Mirror Lake Scenic Byway (State Route 150) twists through the Uinta Mountains, a cool alpine refuge from the blistering heat of Salt Lake City about 1.5 hours away. Uinta Mountains, Utah The place for cool quartzite cragging Justin Keeper on Blues Streak (5.10b), Scout Lake, Uintas, Utah. So don’t wait! In late summer and early fall, the crags are dry, nasty bugs have vanished, and foliage is bursting into brilliant color-it’s prime time for high-country cragging. But if anything, winter apathy is even more powerful than summer languor. True, you could still reach many rocks with a bit of hiking (or snowshoeing). But you know what? All too soon the high peaks will be buried in snow and steel gates will clang shut across mountain roads.
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It’s easy to be complacent about midsummer climbing-those sultry days, the allure of the swimming hole, the crack of a beer… There always seems to be more time. This story originally appeared in Climbing September 2015.
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